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Sri Lanka might have emerged as the “hot” holiday destination of 2016, filling the Instagram feeds of a studiously beach-boho set drawn to its reliable surf and covetable new crop of chic boutique hotels, but the real highlight for me was somewhat scruffier, and far further inland.

Taking the (very) slow scenic train from the tea hills of Talawakelle to the mountain town of Haputale, I was not alone in hanging gleefully out of the windows, looking down at terrifying drops into fairytale forests and out across the hills towards the sea.

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Grassroots efforts have spread Christianity in this Buddhist nation torn apart by civil war.

Although Sri Lankans do not generally trust Westerners, national Christian groups have flourished in recent years.

There’s a long tick-list of tea towns, Buddhist temples and national parks to pack into an itinerary, but perhaps it’s for that reason I relished these more simple moments, enjoying the ramshackle charm deep within a country that’s being smoothed out at its increasingly touristy edges.

My first port of call after landing in the chaotic capital, Colombo, was Sri Lanka’s second city, Kandy.

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